THE retirement project: to sample the product of every grape variety listed in Hugh Johnson’s pocket wine book.
Del Rios Victoria 2013: Australia.
Times and tastes have changed. The “Anything But Chardonnay” backlash forced many New World producers to think again.
This wine is typical of the fresher style being produced in cooler parts of the continent like northern Victoria.
Being Australian, it is still going to have more tropical fruit flavours than a chardonnay from Europe, but it is a much more zesty mouthful than the 90s-style Aussies. The oak is still there, but it is far more subtle.
We enjoyed it with roast chicken, but it would go just as well with salmon or a creamy pasta.