The Wine List #8

Albarino

IMGP5003Martin Codax 2012, Rias Baixas, Spain. 12.5% Alc Vol.

Hugh Johnson says: “Fashionable and expensive in Spain; apricot-scented, good acidity. Best in Rias Baixas; shaping up elsewhere.”

It’s nice to know that, for once, I’m sampling a wine produced in what HJ regards as the finest area for the grape. I bought this in a locally-owned wine warehouse. There were four Albarinos on the racks; the very helpful assistant said the Martin Codax was the most popular among regular customers.

What it says on the label: “Aromatic, crisp and dry.” That is quite modest; I’ve grown accustomed to claims for some outlandish flavours and aromas. “With fresh seafood or shellfish.” We didn’t. “To be served at 12 degrees Centigrade.” Did we? I have no idea.

First taste: With a plate of salamis, olives, cherry peppers, stuffed vine leaves, roasted artichokes, and prawn cocktail. Certainly very dry. I thought ‘wood shavings’, Jacqui thought ‘earthiness’. Neither of us thought ‘apricots.’ She liked it more than me. We agreed it was a three-star glassful.

One for the wine rack? Not for now, thank you.

Not About The Wine: Rias Baixas is made up for four estuarine inlets on the south western coast of Galicia. Its capital, Pontevedra, has won several major awards for accessibility for disabled people, including the Intermodes in Brussels in 2013, and the Excellence Prize at the Center for Active Design New York in 2015.

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