The Wine List #34: Gruner Veltliner

IMGP6598My retirement project to sample wine made from each of the main grape varieties listed in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book.

The Wine: Danaris 2014, Austria (Laithwaites)

Alc Vol: 12%

HJ says: “Austria’s fashionable flagship white grape. Remarkably diverse; from simple peppery everyday wines to others of great complexity and ageing potential.”

Label says: “a pale gold with zesty lime and crunchy green apple fruit, a crisp structure and a long, refreshing white-pepper finish.”

Food combinations: The label says the wine can be enjoyed with white meats, grilled fish, cheese boards, and that it pairs particularly well with Asian cuisine. That’s pretty comprehensive. I’ve never been convinced about wine and Asian food, but we are nothing if not open-minded in the Retired Blokes house, so we ordered a Thai chicken green curry and a Japanese chicken teriyaki for home delivery; 90 minutes later we were still waiting for delivery, the roasted peanuts were all gone, and the level of expectation had dropped from Acute to Sod It. When the food eventually arrived (“sorry, very busy”) it proved not to have been worth the wait. So our first tasting of this wine was in less than ideal circumstances. We finished the bottle the following day, with one of TCMrsF’s excellent roast pork dinners. The wine was clean and pleasantly acidic, and we both enjoyed it with the meal.

Verdict: Not only can they detect apple, they can tell they are green and crunchy? Wow, they are good, these people! Personally, ‘fruity’ is about as precise as I can be in these situations. But The Current Mrs Feeney and I agree about the zesty and crisp. This was the first time either of us had drunk wine made from this grape. Would we buy more? Probably not, because there was no wow factor to make it stand out in a crowded field of pleasant light whites.


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